China in my Hand

I was brimming with excitement about landing in China, but it turned out to be the most unwelcoming and difficult arrival I've had in any country! Things got off to a dubious start during my stopover in Guangzhou where the airport had a really illogical layout (!) but they then became a lot worse when I got into a taxi at Beijing airport and the driver shouted and gesticulated angrily at me from the minute I got into the car to the minute he gave up trying to find my hotel and dumped me at the end of a dark alley (fortunately my hotel was down said alley, but neither of us were certain of that when he booted me out!). Then the hotel receptionist didn't really speak English either and just stared moodily at me throughout check-in. I was frustrated and tired when I got to my room at 11pm – not a great start!

The next day I woke up feeling slightly apprehensive about leaving the hotel but resolved not to let it get the better of me! Things quickly got better when I stepped outside: it was a beautiful day: sunny and clear and without the humidity I’d had to get used to in Myanmar! The hotel was located in one of Beijing’s historic hutong (narrow alleyways which crisscross the city, usually interspersed with quaint courtyards) so it was bustling and atmospheric, and then I emerged onto one of the main, newly revamped shopping streets which lead me right up to the Zhengyang Gate (once part of the inner city wall) and the famous Tian’anmen Square.

Looking on to Zhengyang Gate

Again I found Tian'anmen Square a little confusing as the majority of it was barred off, which seemed unusual for a public square! Finally I found a section which could be entered, through a designated tunnel where the Chinese were subject to scrupulous searches and the foreigners were able to walk right through!

Tian'anmen Square - the inaccessible part

Tian'anmen Square: the accessible part!

After a short while there I wandered through the very grand “Gate of Heavenly Peace”. This was originally part of the Imperial Wall which once enveloped the imperial grounds and is now adorned with a huge portrait of Chairman Mao. 

Gate of Heavenly Peace

Beyond the gate I found myself within the wonderful Forbidden City; home to the Ming and Qing dynasty emperors and their households for 500 years. It was so-named because no-one could enter or leave without emperor’s permission! The complex consists of almost 1000 ancient wooden buildings and I spent a good three or four hours wandering around. 

The Gate of Supreme Harmony

Inside the Forbidden City

11 figures on the roof, denoting the most important building

The Nine Dragons Screen

Lions guard each entrance!

Buildings in the Eastern Quarter

While the locals pushed and shoved to get a look at the Emperors’ throne and living quarters, the bit I actually enjoyed the most was the Clock Exhibition Hall which contained an array of beautiful and elaborate clocks, most of which came from England, Switzerland, France etc and were given as gifts to the Qing emperors.

On leaving the complex I climbed the small hill in the park opposite, which offered a nice panorama of Beijing, including the red rooftops of the Forbidden City. 

Looking out over the Forbidden City

Beijing: greener than I'd expected

Whilst at the top I kept hearing snatches of music and singing from below, so went down to investigate. Below the big trees in the park I discovered a large group of locals gathered together, singing opera! There were two soloists in the centre, two guys with accordions and then a good 50-odd people encircling them – some with song-sheets – who joined in very loudly and enthusiastically during the chorus! They were just very ordinary local people – mostly middle-aged, in their button- up coats and hats, handbags clustered on pieces of cloth laid out on the ground. They obviously turn up every Sunday for a sing-along! They made a great sound and it was a really nice moment. There were no other foreigners around and when they saw me taking photos they made way for me to stand at the front of the circle - fortunately I was not expected to sing!

The Opera Singers!

Lost in the music!

I wandered along from there and came across more and more groups gathered together in different spots around the park – some singing opera, some dancing, some playing instruments. An unexpected little treat!

Dancing in the... park

I then headed to a nearby café, for a coffee and a sit down! The owner spoke excellent English and we chatted a little. She asked how I’d be getting home and I told her I was planning to walk, at which point she noted that it would soon be dark and I’d be better off taking a bus since a direct one would be leaving from right outside. So after my coffee I hopped onto a bus across town – there was no English written or spoken so it had the potential to go wrong, but luckily I seem to have developed a good sense of direction so I knew roughly where I was and when to get off and it turned out fine – feeling like a local already! (sort of).

That night I went out for a traditional Beijing meal: crispy duck with pancakes – delicious! It was an excellent first day which more than made up for the shaky start the previous night!

Night time in the hutong around my hotel

The next day I spent the morning at the Temple of Heaven. Heaven worship is part of Chinese Folk Religion (which includes veneration of ancestors but also of things like the Sun, Moon, Earth and Heaven). This vast complex of religious buildings was used by the emperors (known as the Sons of Heaven) to perform important rituals such as praying for a good harvest. 

The Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests

The Imperial Vault of Heaven

Original throne of Emperor Qianlong, in the Beamless Hall

It was a beautiful place, set in a nice park but again the part I enjoyed most was the little snatches of local life playing out around the park: more group dancing, people playing cards and mahjong, women knitting and even a group of women doing an exercise/ dance routine which at one point was set to “Hit Me Baby One More Time”: NOT what I was expecting to see in China!

Playing cards

Hit Me Baby One More Time!

Ladies chatting and knitting session!

After a long walk around I had my first metro ride (very easy) and had lunch on a famous restaurant street, avoiding such menu items as spine, intestine, lungs, lips, feet and baby turtle.

I then spent a couple of hours wandering along one of the most famous hutongs - Nanluogu Xiang - which has been developed into a bit of a hipster hangout. It was quite a cool place – if a little bit too achingly cool for me! It was also quite over-run with tourists. Still, it was a nice place to stroll around and browse in a few cute shops and start to make a plan for the following day...

Hanging with the cool kids, in Nanluogu Xiang