A little detour to Shanghai...

When initially planning my trip to China I’d spent some time deliberating over whether to go to Shanghai or Yangshuo after Chengdu. Finally I’d decided on Yangshuo, on the basis that I could easily include Shanghai on my next trip. Thus I’d planned for a whole week in the Yangshuo region with the idea of also doing some hiking around the spectacular Dragon's Backbone rice terraces, north of Guilin. However on the Great Wall trip I’d met some other travellers who’d just been there and told me the terraces were dry and empty at this time of year, as the rice had already been harvested. This planted the first seed of doubt in my mind. Then, following my increasing frustrations with China, I came to realise that I wouldn't be hurrying back (I haven’t even mentioned my frustrations with the internet censorship, which is just outrageous). In the end I decided to skip the rice terraces, leave Yangshuo early and squeeze in a few days in Shanghai before my outbound flight.

OK, OK, so my handsome Portuguese friend Bruno was also going there, which may have had some influence oh this change of plan...

I'm very glad I did it though as of course I had a much better time in Shanghai than I'd had in Yangshuo. And not just because the company was good! I really liked Shanghai as a city. It also felt just a bit more organised and accessible than other parts of China – I guess it is just more Westernised!

On the first day we spent a lot of time wandering along The Bund - a wide avenue on the waterfront, where the most powerful banks and trading houses were once located. It's a great place for a stroll, with neo-classical and art deco buildings on the one side and the glittering sky-scrapers of Pudong across the river. 

View of Pudong from the Bund

Grand old buildings on The Bund

Later that afternoon we wandered along to Old Street and the Yuyuan Bazaar: a busy area lined with shops and tea-houses.

On the way to Yuyuan Bazaar

Back on the Bund in the "golden hour" before sunset

The next day we hung out in a really gorgeous district called the French Concession which was full of tree-lined streets and old residential buildings. We spent most of the time in Tianzifang: a maze of alleyways lined with cool little shops, art galleries and cafés. Just my sort of place and much more effortlessly cool than Beijing’s hutongs.

In the alleyways of Tianzifang

Towards sunset we took the metro over to Pudong, the new part of the city where all the modern skyscrapers are located. We went up to Cloud 9 - a bar on the 87th floor of the Jin Mao tower - and enjoyed a couple of cocktails as dusk fell and the city was gradually lit up.

In Pudong

Sunset over the Bund

Bruno on/ in Cloud 9

To get back across the river, we took the Bund Sightseeing Tunnel - a tunnel of garish flashing lights which you pass through in a kind of converted train carriage - a bit like a theme park ride but without the excitement! Definitely one of the weirdest "tourist attractions" I have ever visited. Only in China!

On both nights we also ate in really good restaurants - it was much easier to find good food here than in the rest of China. We even enjoyed a nice bottle of red on the second night, which was much needed after about a month without wine! Heaven.

Bruno left China the day before me so for my last 24 hours I headed to Suzhou: a small canal town on the outskirts of Shanghai.  As well as its charming canals it is known for having many beautiful walled gardens. I only had time to visit one - The Garden of the Nets - which is considered to be the best-preserved, and dates from the 12th century.

The Garden of the Nets

The next morning I took a boat ride along the canals. It was quite pleasant - especially when the rower started to serenade me and locals wandering along the banks joined in!

I'd like to point out that I was made to wear this hat,

Singing rower

Finally it was time to return to Shanghai and take the metro across the city to the airport! I'm sorry to admit it, but despite a lovely couple of days in Shanghai, I was actually quite relieved to be saying goodbye to China!

Life beside the canals in Suzhou