By the old Moulmein Pagoda, lookin’ lazy at the sea...

On my first day in Mawlamyine I got up early for breakfast… and then promptly went back to bed! Jetlag has hit me hard this time! Towards midday, I felt ready for a wander. I decided I’d head towards the local market as I wanted to try to buy a longyi – a traditional skirt which is worn by almost all the local men and women. I’d been struggling to know what to wear here as it’s so very hot but it’s also very conservative so it’s better to be covered up. Doing what the locals do seemed like a good option!

On my way to the market a couple of young girls pulled up beside me on a motorbike and asked if I’d chat with them for a bit. Their names were Patricia and Wendy and they were 16 years old. They were studying English – I think for the equivalent of A-levels, as they were hoping to go on to study it at university in two years’ time. They’d only been learning it for three months (six hours of lessons a week) but their English was the best of any of the locals I’d met so far. After we’d chatted for a bit they asked about my plans for the rest of the day and I told them about my market trip and they offered to accompany me. Off we went on the back of the motorbike, with Patricia and I riding pillion… and my first experience of riding side-saddle (as all the ladies seem to do, here). Not sure I’ll be doing that again though!

Wendy & Patricia outside the market

It turned out that Patricia’s mother had a stall at the market selling longyis, which was quite lucky as when we got there the market was huge and overwhelming and of course no-one really spoke English! They helped me to pick out a nice material and Patricia’s mum gave me a good price (I think!) of about £3. Longyis are tied in a particular way and the girls tried to show me, but it seemed like a “flashing” accident waiting to happen, so we decided it was best for me to get it sewn up and a little hook discreetly attached, which the girls organised with a tailor downstairs (and insisted on paying, as well as buying me a drink while we waited!). 

Me with Patricia's Mum, at the Longyi stall

Again, I attracted a huge amount of attention in the market, with many stallholders and shoppers openly staring at me. You could almost misinterpret it as unfriendliness, but I know its just uncertainty/ lack of familiarity as as soon as I meet their gaze and smile, their faces break into a huge beam and they start waving and giggling excitedly. Of course not everyone needs encouragement –sometimes I’ll just be walking along the road and here a little voice calling out “helloooo!” and I’ll turn and see a face peering out from somewhere, smiling and waving. Usually they’re little children but sometimes they are elderly men or women. It’s really sweet. 

After the market I bid farewell to the girls and headed up to the small ridge behind town, which is topped by several gold stupas. I chose just one – Kyaikthanlan Paya – to explore. There were several chambers with many Buddha statues and beautiful views over the city. 

Kyaikthanlan Paya

Reclining Buddha at Kyaikthanlan Paya

On the walk back I got chatting to a monk and again lots of people called out to me as I walked past. I then picked up a motorbike taxi and headed out of town to see a giant reclining Buddha on a nearby hillside.

Even bigger reclining Buddha...

The next day, I took a day trip to Bilu Kyun – otherwise known as Ogre Island (not sure why - our guide mentioned cannibals but I'm pretty sure that was a joke!). There are around 70 small villages here, mostly inhabited by the Mon people. The island is just offshore and I went with a German guy and our two guides/ drivers. One of the main things which had interested me about the island was that the Lonely Planet said that there were no motorised vehicles there and everyone still gets around by horse and cart. This is a classic example of how quickly things are changing here as that guidebook was published in December 2011 and there are now almost no horse and carts remaining and everyone gets around by motorbike! Similarly our guide was telling us that a couple of years ago a mobile phone sim card cost around 4,000,000 kyat (around $40,000) meaning that no-one could afford one, but now that there is foreign investment and competition the price has fallen to 1500 kyat (~$1.50). No wonder Samsung are advertising so heavily here!

The island was really beautiful – emerald green rice fields, small dirt villages and again endless friendly faces. I wish I’d taken more photos but after our motorbike skidded over on its side twice in the slippery mud, I decided to keep my camera safely in its case!

Love the bikes... despite the minor crash

View across the island

We stopped off to see rubber bands, slates, bamboo hats, pipes and walking sticks being made and also visited a stupa with beautiful views. But the real highlight was meeting the locals – especially the pipe/ walking stick family where the Dad was a real character and insisted on giving me a demonstration of how to tie a longyi, as well as how to chew Betelnut. I’ve seen Betelnut chewed in many other countries, but never so much as here. Almost every local has permanently red-stained broken teeth!

Betelnut chewing.. check out those teeth!

I was wearing my longyi and this attracted even more excitement than usual. People were actually coming out of their houses to look at me and point and exclaim. One lady even commented that I looked like a real Mon lady…. I think that may have been stretching it a bit! As we drove through the villages people would stop what they were doing to wave and smile and I felt such a rush of happiness. Things are developing so quickly here and I hope THAT aspect doesn't change too much, once they start getting a more steady flow of foreigners passing through...

New friend who wanted his photo taken with me!