Beautiful people and places in Hpa'An

The following day it was time to move on to the village of Hpa-An. The guidebook recommended taking a local passenger ferry, but this had since closed and the only boats available were for private charters for tourists. I’d had my name on the list for a couple of days but no other tourists had signed up and I wasn't about to charter a boat on my own (!) so I ended up having to take the bus. I’m glad I did, as it was a really unforgettable experience. 

The bus was a rattly old rust-bucket with a brand-new flat-screen TV hanging at the front – quite amusing. It should go without saying that I was the only foreigner and encountered a great deal of attention. In fact just before we pulled away I looked up and realised that no-one was sitting in the front or the very back seats – everyone had congregated around me in the middle! They were mostly young women and they were openly chatting about me, pointing at me and giggling when I smiled at them. One offered me half of the grapefruit she was eating (which I politely declined) and then another boldly came and sat next to me, opened up a plastic bag and started trying to share her (half-eaten) lunch with me! Again I declined, and then she got off the bus, bought an unopened bottle of orange juice from a nearby seller, got back and on and proudly presented it to me. Of course this time I couldn't refuse – she was clearly so determined to give me something! She was chatting away to me in Burmese, asking me lots of questions and apparently expecting me to understand! Then she started showing me the things she’d bought in town, including photos of her children, which she'd had laminated. I in turn showed her photos of my nieces and then had to draw a little family tree with stick people, to illustrate that they were my brother’s children and not my own! She seemed delighted when she understood and was able to explain it to the other women on the bus! A bond was formed!

Shortly after we set off an almighty downpour started. I was sitting right next to the middle door, which was jammed open, and proceeded to get very wet. My new friend discussed with the conductor and, despite my protests, everyone then shifted around so that I could have a dry seat!

Finally it was time for my friend to disembark, in a small poor-looking village. She came over and clasped my hands in hers and we both said things that the other couldn't understand. Then she got down, but continued to stand there, smiling and waving until the bus pulled away. I actually had a bit of a lump in my throat –something about the encounter was just so very touching – the complete goodness and generosity of a stranger, and the ability to communicate and form a bond without being able to speak the same language or having any common background at all! I really regret now that I didn't get a photo with her. I had wanted to but been fearful that pulling out my big camera would have changed the dynamic between us all. But in all likelihood she wouldn't have minded as she was just so sweet. Perhaps she would have even taken it as a compliment (as it would have been intended!).

There were lots of other friendly locals on the bus, including the conductor who made a big effort to make sure I was OK and found a motorbike taxi for me when we arrived in Hpa’An and shook me enthusiastically by the hand when I said goodbye. You really do get the sense that people are out to look after you.

That night in Hpa’An I ate in a tiny dingy restaurant where the other customers were all local men crowded around a battered TV screen watching the Miss Myanmar competition! It was an excellent people-watching moment!

There were a few more tourists in Hpa’An but still there was just one other person on my tour the next day – a nice French lady called Katrina (with whom I had dinner that night). The tour took us through the beautiful countryside surrounding Hpa’An. We travelled in a tattered old pick-up truck and the unmade roads were in such poor condition that I was almost bumped out of my seat several times and was sure I’d bruised my tailbone by the end of the day!

Our first port of call was Yathaypyan Cave, where many Buddhas were found hidden in the darkness. 

Buddhas in Yathapyan Cave

The view from Yathaypyan

We passed through stunning countryside on the way

Next we moved on to Kawgun Cave, where the walls and roof were covered with thousands of tiny clay Buddhas and carvings, dating back to the 7th century. 

Kawgun Cave

Hpa'An is surrounded by limestone mountains, the tallest of which is Mount Zwegabin, which often dominated the horizon. 

Mount Zwegabin

The next stop was Kyauk Kalep - a monastery with a pagoda perched on top of a tall finger of sheer rock. 

Kyauk Kalep

View from the pagoda at Kyauk Kalep

Then some gardens at the base of the mountain, which were full of row upon row of Buddha statues. 

Lumbini Garden

After a big lunch we were feeling a bit full and sleepy so enjoyed the chance to while away a couple of hours beside this beautiful lake, at the end of which was a spring-fed swimming hole, where many of the locals were cooling off!

Lake near Kaw Ka Thawng Cave

Not a bad spot for a swim!

The next morning it was time to return to Yangon to meet Emmeline who was arriving that night. It was an 8-hour coach journey to get there, and the less said about it the better (but let’s just say that the roads were very windy and the locals don't have very strong stomachs!). Whilst waiting for the bus I found a tiny little café selling freshly-baked naan and Indian chai for breakfast which was a very welcome sight, as most of the food here is fried and can be quite oily. Again the owner and other customers were so friendly and warm – it’s like everyone here genuinely wants to help you and welcome you. I know I've mentioned this quite a few times now but it’s just been so overwhelming. I don’t think I've experience it to this extent in any other country I've been to… EVEN India! J

Hpa'An countryside: SO green!