4 days in the Colombian Capital!

My first taste of Colombia was the capital city, Bogotá, where I stayed for 4 days.

Bogotá has a lovely colonial centre, called La Candelaria, which is full of beautiful old buildings and cobbled streets. I visited the Museo del Oro (apparently the most important gold collection in the world) and took a cable-car up to the mountain of Monserrate, which has lovely views over the city and surrounds.

Plaza de Bolivar, the main square

Gold in the shape of a sea-shell

Cable-Car at Monserrate

However the best part for me was just wandering around the streets, soaking up the atmosphere. I found a nice little cafe for lunch, where I tried out a local speciality: “chocolate santafereño”, which is hot chocolate with cheese and bread! You’re meant to drop the cheese into the chocolate and then eat it. I gave this a try but decided that I prefer both cheese and chocolate on their own! 

Over lunch I met a lovely Colombian guy called Gustavo who helped me figure out the bus route home. Once on the bus I got chatting to another Colombian couple. I’m not sure if its just because I’m on my own, but I’ve never known people to be so friendly and welcoming.

Chocolate Santafereño!

The following day I pieced together 3 different bus journeys to finally arrive in Villa de Leyva, a small colonial town 4 hours from Bogotá, which looks probably exactly as it did in the 1500s when it was founded. Not only was it beautiful, but it was also probably the most peaceful place I’ve ever visited. White-washed walls, painted balconies filled with flowers, mountainous backdrop... if this was anywhere else it would be packed with tourists, but I scarcely saw any Colombians, let alone foreigners. It was a pretty cool feeling. 

Most of the churches and other public buildings were closed (as it was the bicentennial anniversary of the first congress), but that gave me the perfect excuse to relax in the town square with a coffee and cake and then just wander around the streets for a few hours. I don't think I've ever walked so slowly before, but it seemed fitting! All I could hear were the birds singing and the distant sound of a radio playing old Latino music. Heaven! I can’t imagine how anyone could ever get stressed here!

Plaza Mayor, the central square

So peaceful!

Public gardens by the main square

I had one night in Villa de Leyva and would have loved to stay longer as there’s apparently some beautiful landscapes, waterfalls etc in the surrounding area. But I also wanted to try to squeeze in another nearby attraction: the Catedral de Sal, at Zipaquirá, which involved taking another series of local buses. 

I absolutely love taking the local buses. Most of the time they’re just beaten-up old minibuses, and they try to cram on as many people as possible, so you’ll have people sitting on the dashboard, or the steps or, like yesterday, on an up-turned bucket with a cushion on top, in the middle of the aisle. But everyone is laughing and joking around with each other, and it always brings a smile to my face. I’m almost always the only foreigner on the bus and I know I’m getting a really authentic local experience. And of course you pass through beautiful countryside and remote villages that you’d never otherwise see.

The Catedral de Sal is an underground cathedral, built in an old salt mine. Unfortunately by the time I got there they’d stopped running guided tours so I had to just wander around on my own and I wasn’t really sure of the meaning of anything. But it was still quite impressive! When I emerged at ground level, I found myself in the mother of all thunder-storms, which was pretty cool. However I did get soaked to the skin on the way back to the bus-stop so it was a chilly journey back down to Bogotá.

Catedral de Sal

Finally, a word on my wonderful hosts in Bogotá: Lina and Leo, their daughter Sara and their maid, Margarita. Please forgive the gushing, but I’m just so so overwhelmed by the kindness and generosity they showed to me: a complete stranger. They welcomed me into their home like an old friend: we ate together every evening, they helped me with my trip-planning, they even made little Sara sleep with them for 3 nights so that I could have her bed! The wonderful Margarita prepared many of the local specialities for me to try, including Ajiaco (chicken and potato soup), Tamarind juice and Salpicón (Colombian fruit cocktail). All in all I’ve been a bit spoiled really: its going to come as a shock to stay in a hostel after this! So, many thanks to Leo and Lina, who are truly amazing. I only hope I get a chance to pay them back one day!