We inadvertently timed our departure from Wangdue very well, as we ran right into a procession of the Chief Abbott and his entourage who were on the move from Punakha (where he spends the winter) to Thimpu (where he spends the summer). The road we were taking had been closed off and a huge crowd of villagers had gathered in the streets to watch him pass. The children had been let out of school and there was a real buzz in the air. Of course we wanted to join in, so Ten pulled over and we jumped out.
After a short wait the procession of cars drew slowly into the village. Monks walked ahead, handing out blessed pieces of cord, which the people tied around their necks.
Next came a couple of ornately decorated cars, containing the country's treasures and relics, which are also moved to Thimpu. The locals had brought offerings of rice and incense, which they handed over to monks inside the cars. They also threw money into the treasure chest and touched their heads on it as the car passed.
Along with the other villagers, Emm, Ring and I lined up to be blessed by the Chief Abbott as his car slowly passed by. We had to bow our heads low and cover our mouths (you're not allowed to let your breath touch holy things) and pray for his good health, as he leaned out of the car window and bonked us on the head with his stick!
It would be a while before Ten could move the car so Ring, Emm and I started walking down the road towards the next village. There was a huge line of traffic piling up. Many of the vehicles were carrying monks but I felt bad for those which were not involved: they were going to have a very long, very slow journey ahead!
When we arrived in the next village we took a short walk across the fields to reach Chime Lakhang temple, a fertility temple built to honour the Divine Madman. It was in a really beautiful location and there were lots of young monks sitting in groups outside, playing instruments.
Once inside we bent down for our fertility blessing, which involved a monk touching us on the head with a 10-inch wooden phallus and a bow and arrow! Ring then had a quiet word with another two monks, and we were told to sit on the wooden floor next to them, as they said a prayer for our longevity. They chanted for about ten minutes - some times in unison and other times in harmony. It was a very special moment. Having been granted fertility, longevity and a blessing by the Chief Abbott in a little over an hour, we were feeling pretty special!
We then wandered back through the village, found Ten and continued our drive back towards Thimpu, with a stop at the Dochu La Pass again, for lunch. As we arrived into Thimpu we saw the Chief Abbott's procession on a nearby hill - we'd managed to catch them up despite all of our stops!
We made a quick stop in Thimpu to buy more white prayer flags, as I had just learnt that a friend's sister had passed away, and I wanted to do something to commemorate her. We hung them at the Iron Man bridge we'd visited on our first day and then made our way on to Paro. Here, we stopped in briefly at a Painting School as I was interested in buying a Mandala painting (symbolic in Buddhism). In the end it was a little bit too expensive for me (although even now I'm still wondering if I made a mistake there!). We stopped in Paro overnight.
For our final day, we had one of Bhutan's biggest highlights in store: a hike up to Taktshang Goemba. Known as the Tiger's Nest, this is the most venerated monastery in the country, clinging to the side of a cliff at 3200m above sea level. It is said that Guru Rinpoche flew here on the back of a tigress to subdue a local demon, and then meditated in a cave here for three months.
It was a beautiful walk, up and up through the pine forest, with spectacular views over the valley floor. Prayer flags were strung in the trees all along the way. (I'd actually wanted to hang some for my friend's sister here, but we had discovered it was an inauspicious astrological date for that!). Some of the strings of flags were hanging right across the gaping chasm between the cliffs - a pretty impressive feat!
When we finally came reached eye level with the monastery, it was just stunning.
Once at the monastery we visited its four main temples, including one which was built around the cave in which the Guru meditated. They were all really beautiful and again the atmosphere was really special. Just by the entrance was a large relic stone with a small indentation in it. Standing on a starting line etched into the ground nearby, we had to walk forward with our eyes closed and try to place our thumb in the hole. Apparently those who succeed will have good luck. Emm and I failed miserably but Ring managed it first time. I had a feeling he was peeking.... or just well-practiced!
True to his teenager personality, Ring was clearly not a morning person - he barely uttered a word on the hike up, but once at the Tiger's Nest he suddenly seemed to wake up and started giggling and messing around again. Actually the three of us had a fit of giggles inside one of the temples, while a monk looked at us, sternly. Back outside we went to a small room where Emm and I each lit a butter lamp and said a prayer. It was a really beautiful and peaceful place.
By the time we'd hiked back down we were well in need of food and a beer, and were rewarded with a delicious lunch at a really cute restaurant, where again, we were the only guests.
On the way back to the hotel we passed a man, prostrating himself along the road towards the starting point of the Tiger's Nest hike. Ring told us that some people can walk for miles to particular monasteries, prostrating themselves the whole way. This is to show repentance for their sins, and it can take months. Incredible.
That night, we went to another local farmhouse for dinner. We were also able to try a traditional hot stone bath. The baths were large wooden tubs, which were filled with cold water. The family members carried through large rocks which had been on the fire for 5-6 hours and were glowing red. These were plunged into the water. A wooden slat was put in place to keep them from touching us, and bunches of local herbs were thrown into the water. We lowered ourselves in - it was really, really hot, so much so that I started to feel a bit faint and had to keep topping it up with cold water! Once I'd got the temperature right it was really relaxing and nice... especially when one of the women brought us a glass of wine! We then had a lovely final meal, with the family.
The next morning I was up early to say goodbye to Emm, who had a flight back to Kathmandu at 7am. My own flight (to Vietnam) was at 11am. I felt incredibly sad when Ring and Ten came to take me to the airport. After spending so much time with them and having so many laughs together, I'd grown really fond of them, and had a huge lump in my throat as I hugged them goodbye! But it was more than that. This trip had been so special and so unique. Bhutan is a truly amazing country: it felt so unspoiled, so untouched by tourism, so sheltered from all the bad stuff in the world. I really hope they don't change that. It was like a door briefly opened and we were able to catch a glimpse of life inside the fairy-tale, before it was closed to us again. I will never forget what that felt like! And I'm so happy that I was able to share all of that with my dearest friend, Emm!
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| Villagers await the arrival of the Chief Abbott |
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| The procession comes into view |
Along with the other villagers, Emm, Ring and I lined up to be blessed by the Chief Abbott as his car slowly passed by. We had to bow our heads low and cover our mouths (you're not allowed to let your breath touch holy things) and pray for his good health, as he leaned out of the car window and bonked us on the head with his stick!
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| The locals make offerings and touch their heads on the car of relics |
When we arrived in the next village we took a short walk across the fields to reach Chime Lakhang temple, a fertility temple built to honour the Divine Madman. It was in a really beautiful location and there were lots of young monks sitting in groups outside, playing instruments.
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| Walking through the village, to the monastery |
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| Chime Lhakhang |
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| Monks practicing music in the grounds |
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| Chillies drying outside a village house |
We made a quick stop in Thimpu to buy more white prayer flags, as I had just learnt that a friend's sister had passed away, and I wanted to do something to commemorate her. We hung them at the Iron Man bridge we'd visited on our first day and then made our way on to Paro. Here, we stopped in briefly at a Painting School as I was interested in buying a Mandala painting (symbolic in Buddhism). In the end it was a little bit too expensive for me (although even now I'm still wondering if I made a mistake there!). We stopped in Paro overnight.
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| We also took a peek inside Bhutan's national football stadium, in Thimpu. Not bad! |
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| An artist working on a Mandala |
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| View from our hotel in Paro, with Rinpung Dzong on the right |
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| About to set off... with Tiger's Nest way up above us on the cliff! |
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| Gross National Happiness in action! |
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| Prayer wheels and prayer flags along the path |
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| Up and up we go... |
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| The Tiger's Nest |
True to his teenager personality, Ring was clearly not a morning person - he barely uttered a word on the hike up, but once at the Tiger's Nest he suddenly seemed to wake up and started giggling and messing around again. Actually the three of us had a fit of giggles inside one of the temples, while a monk looked at us, sternly. Back outside we went to a small room where Emm and I each lit a butter lamp and said a prayer. It was a really beautiful and peaceful place.
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| About to start the return hike... |
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| An attempt at an artistic shot... |
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| Ring's attempt at an artistic shot - can you spot the monastery?! |
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| Well-earned food and beer |
That night, we went to another local farmhouse for dinner. We were also able to try a traditional hot stone bath. The baths were large wooden tubs, which were filled with cold water. The family members carried through large rocks which had been on the fire for 5-6 hours and were glowing red. These were plunged into the water. A wooden slat was put in place to keep them from touching us, and bunches of local herbs were thrown into the water. We lowered ourselves in - it was really, really hot, so much so that I started to feel a bit faint and had to keep topping it up with cold water! Once I'd got the temperature right it was really relaxing and nice... especially when one of the women brought us a glass of wine! We then had a lovely final meal, with the family.
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| HOT stone bath |
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| Our final meal in Bhutan (a little red-faced, post bath!) |
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| What an amazing trip! |
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