Temple-tastic

I then had a further two days of sightseeing with no guide, but using the same "remorque"(motorbike-drawn tuk-tuk) driver. He was a really sweet guy and actually thanked me at the end for giving him three days' work - it's very much the low season now and although it still seemed busy to me, there aren't enough tourists to provide regular work for all of the guides and drivers.

A remorque: my preferred mode of transport in Siem Reap!

Given that I really liked the jungle temple on day one, I decided to head to an even more "jungle-y" one on day two! Beng Mealea is also two hours outside of Siem Reap so it was a nice opportunity to see more of the countryside. 

Typical rural house (on stilts due to the rising water levels during monsoon)

Three schoolchildren on a bicycle: standard

Passing traffic...

Truck piled with branches (and topped with a couple of people)

Beng Mealea was an even more overgrown and ruinous version of Ta Prohm. I had to pick my way over rubble and through vines which hung low over the path. The trees were weaving their way up between every crevice and almost devouring the stones! It was dark and shady and mysterious: very atmospheric!

Low-hanging vines, at Beng Mealea

Beautiful stonework amongst the rubble

The trees are taking over!

The central courtyard, now in ruins

Tree vs. Temple

On the way back to Siem Reap we visited the temples of the Roluos group: Lo Lei, Bakong and Preah Ko. These are the oldest temples at Angkor, built in the 9th century.

Lo Lei

Bakong

The moat at Bakong

Preah Ko

On the final day we headed to Bantei Srei, which is one of the most beautiful temples at Angkor. The stone is a pinkish colour and every building is covered in exquisite carvings.

Beautiful Bantei Srei

Incredible carvings at Bantei Srei

We stopped at Pre Rup on the way there and then visited Banteay Samré, Eastern Mebon, Ta Som, Preah Neak Pean and Preah Khan on the way back! Phew! Have I forgotten anyone?!

Pre Rup

Banteay Samré

Eastern Mebon

Ta Som

Preah Neak Pean

Preah Khan

Young boy sketching inside Preah Khan

By this point, I was getting very much "temple-d out". It's incredible that there are so many of them, and that they're still in such excellent condition overall, but after a while you start to see particular styles and features repeated over and over and it's hard not to become complacent. 

People say that a sunrise or sunset here is incredible, but unfortunately they neglect to mention that that is really only in the dry season! When you have thick black clouds covering the sky from morning to night, your chances are pretty slim! I did optimistically go to one last temple, Phnom Bakheng, on the final day just to see if there was any chance, but the sun disappeared behind the clouds at least an hour or two before it actually set. Oh well, another time maybe!

View of Angkor Wat from Phnom Bakheng (no sunset unfortunately)

Just as I ended my time in Vietnam with a motorbike tour, so I ended my time in Cambodia in a similarly appropriate way: with a Passion-fruit Daiquiri at the Foreign Correspondents' Club (Siem Reap branch!). Then it was time to cross the border into Laos!