BTS 7: Back in Tirumangalam

Week 3 should have been a quiet week, as I was to stay in the office all week and type up my reports. But this is India, so even a quiet week isn't non-eventful! 

For a start, the first two days of the week were mostly without electricity. Power cuts are a part of life in this region and up until this point the power had been cutting out around 4 or 5 times a day for an hour each time. When this happens an inverter kicks in so at least a few of the lights and fans still work even though the plug sockets don’t. But on this occasion, the power was only ON for about 4-5 hours a day AND the back-up failed too. The evenings were mostly spent by candle-light which might have been atmospheric had I not been dripping with sweat, from the lack of fan (its around 35-40°c at the moment and doesn't cool down much at night)! 

And of course not much work could be done without computers (sad isn't it?!) so everyone in the office had to just sit and chat (and sweat), waiting to see if the power might miraculously kick back in! I did get a bit creative and design a new company newsletter using sheets of A4 paper and felt tip pens. (Who needs fancy art software?!) I also passed a nice couple of hours playing Uno and Pick Up Sticks with a couple of the young boys from Tirumangalam Boys Town who come up to sweep the guesthouse floors and empty the bins every evening. They were so excited to learn these simple games!

On Tuesday lunch we had a visit from Jan and Narendra, an English couple who were previously volunteers but have now retired in India to help Joe with fund-raising from local sources. They were an interesting couple. Over lunch, the story of my Indian roots came up and Narendra (an Indian national by birth) told me that since my grandmother was an Indian citizen, I’m actually eligible to be an “Overseas Citizen of India” which means I would be able to come here whenever I want and stay as long as I want with no need for a visa! This sounds very handy since I have a feeling this is one country I’ll visit again and again throughout my life. Incidentally, I’d also be able to pay the Indian prices at tourist attractions (foreigners typically pay much more than locals, e.g. 750 rupees for a foreigner to visit the Taj Mahal vs. 20 rupees for a local). I’m not too bothered about the money, but it would be funny to see people’s faces when the pale, blonde girl gets in the Indian Citizens queue!

On Wednesday afternoon I went down to the primary school with Uma, as she needed a photo of each child for their ID cards. These little ones are just so cute and hilarious. The entire school was lined up in a big long caterpillar and edging out of the building to where Uma and I were crouched with the camera. Indian people often seem to pose very formally for photos and these little ones were no different: in front of the camera they stood to attention like little soldiers with very serious, straight faces. Then Uma and I would tell them to say “eeeeeee” - (their version of “cheese”?) - and their little faces would erupt into the biggest, most beautiful smiles you have ever seen. It was completely infectious - I couldn't stop smiling and laughing along with them, and the more I laughed the more they smiled and laughed too! 

"eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee!"

After we’d taken the “formal” photos I took a few more for fun and they got so excited! All I had to do was point the camera at a couple of children and suddenly ten more were scrambling to get into the picture. I showed them the photos afterwards and they roared with laughter and pointed at their faces on the screen. Perhaps for some of them it was the first time they’d seen a photo of themselves. 

Everyone wants to be in the photo!

We were only there for about 30 minutes but it gave me such an energy buzz and I went back to the office on a complete high! Who’d have thought it but these kids have melted even my cynical , grumpy old heart!

I know you shouldn't have favourites... but just LOOK at the smallest one's face! Love her!

Joe had been staying at the guesthouse for two weeks by this point as he’d had some hospital treatment, but at the weekend it was time for him to head home. He now lives in one of the former Boys Towns (Perumparai) which has been converted into an Environmental Centre for teaching young people about conservation. He invited Kirsty and I to go and see it and I realised I hadn't left the office/ guesthouse site all week so it was a good opportunity for a brief change of scene. 

Perumparai Environment Centre (formerly Perumparai Boys Town)

I was able to get a lift up there with Joe’s driver, Pandhi and as we were packing our stuff into the car another Indian guy turned up who I hadn't met before. Joe introduced us… and it turned out to be Subby, who was the very first Boys Town boy in 1965 (more about this in my next post!). Joe has written a book about his life, which I have been avidly reading and Subby features strongly throughout so it felt a bit like I was meeting a celebrity (i.e I felt like I knew him whereas he, obviously, had no idea who I was!). 

The Environment Centre was really peaceful. The power was out again so we sat outside by candle-light enjoying a few beers and I listened to Joe and Subby reminiscing about the old days. Occasionally a firefly would add to the glow. It was really touching to see how Subby still looks up to Joe and is now really looking after him in his old age (although Subby himself is now 65!). 

Subby and Joe at Perumparai

The next day, after a relaxing morning spent reading outside in the sunshine, it was soon time to take the bus back to Tirumangalam (or rather, two buses and an auto-rickshaw!). This rural area is just beautiful. The bus passed through countless tiny, remote villages, where the houses are small and made of stone, with corrugated tin or coconut thatch roofs. Sometimes the whole “house” is built from palm leaves. The village shops are more like open-fronted stalls. There’s always one with sweets and snacks, one with fruit and veg and about four with huge steaming vats of chai, and a few village men sitting on benches outside, reading the paper.

Typical village shop

Check out the iron on her right!

Many times, I saw families walking home leading cows or goats on a piece of string (cows for milk, goats for meat). Joe was telling me about the cows you see in towns and cities in India - the so-called “sacred cows” - which are allowed to wander the streets freely. Apparently they do have owners, and are tied up and cared for overnight and then released after the early morning milking. The cows wander around the local restaurants and eat their fill of leftovers (the banana leaf plates are usually thrown on the ground behind the restaurant) and then they often wander in the road and settle down, oblivious to the traffic. In the evening they’ll wander back to their house for a milking and their evening meal! It always makes me smile when I see people walking a cow or goat on a lead, while the dogs are all strays. The Indian people must think we're crazy keeping dogs as pets - why would you keep a dog when you can't make any income from it?!

View from the bus home... golden hour